Hygiene in the home consists to a large extent in curbing bacterial infection by household cleanliness, personal grooming and care in the preparation and storage of food.

Bacteria are minute organisms, commonly called germs - some dangerous to man and some harmless – which can only be seen with the help of a microscope. Different types of bacteria are responsible for such diseases as pneumonia, tuberculosis, various fevers, food poisoning, etc. It is true that a healthy body can often withstand an invasion of germs (provided this is not too heavy) and if one does succumb, many valuable antiseptics and antibiotics can be called in to control infection. However, this is very definitely one of the cases where prevention is better than cure and it is only common sense to avoid as far as possible any concentrations of what may be harmful germs.

Most bacteria grow best in a warm, moist situation, with a handy supply of suitable food, and given these conditions they multiply very quickly, so that one germ can develop into many millions in a few hours. Fresh air and general cleanliness are thus our two best weapons. Rooms should be adequately ventilated and regularly cleaned, clothing regularly washed, all foodstuffs protected against flies, vermin and dust and handled with clean hands. Plenty of hot water for personal washing, washing up, laundry work and cleaning is obviously a very important element in household hygiene.

A few Simple precautions will ensure hygienic dish-washing. Dish cloths and tea towels should be frequently washed (and preferably boiled). If the water is hot enough and the crockery/cutlery rinsed in clean water, the tea towel can be dispensed with to a large extent, dishes etc being dried in the plate rack.

Every parent should take steps to protect their family’s health by a few simple rules, such as training children to wash their hands after using the lavatory and not to cough and sneeze over other people or over food, in the home or in Shops or restaurants.

Infections can be quickly spread round a family; so if any members are suffering from a sore throat it is necessary to be particularly careful to see that they keep to their own face cloth and towel and that cups and spoons are washed separately in hot water containing a disinfectant.

Similar precautions should also be taken if any member of the family is suffering from diarrhoea and/or vomiting.

Disinfect the lavatory pan, the seat and the handle of the flush mechanism – dangerous germs are so easily passed round.

Food Hygiene: Perishable foods should be kept in a refrigerator or, failing this, in a cool, airy larder. It is particularly important to protect milk, cream, cooked meats and fish against contamination, as they make an ideal medium for the growth of the bacteria which may lead to food poisoning. These foods should always be placed in as cool a place as possible and should be kept covered, though cooked meat and fish require some ventilation, unless they are stored at refrigerator temperature.

Pot-pourri looks great as a decoration and adds a beautiful scent to a room but it is only scented flower petals. Why buy it when you can make it yourself as a gift to someone else or for your own home.

Spread the petals of about 3 dozen roses out on paper and leave them to dry indoors in a warm but airy place.

Turn them frequently and leave until almost as dry as paper. Pick and dry separately any other scented flowers and leaves from the garden. Use up to a handful of each. A small proportion of brightly coloured petals from unscented flowers may also be included to improve the appearance of the finished pot-pourri. Some people like to include some angelica (wash off the sugar before slicing and drying it) and a few pieces of very thinly peeled orange or lemon rind.

Put the dried rose petals into a pottery or glass container that has a well-fitting lid, allowing for each handful of roses a smaller handful of common salt (about 4 oz. in all). Cover and leave for 5 days, stirring twice daily.

Meanwhile buy or prepare the following ingredients:
4 oz. powdered orris root
1 oz. coriander seed
1 oz. grated nutmeg
1 oz. whole cloves
2-3 sticks of cinnamon
1/2 oz. oil of geranium (optional)
1/2 oz. oil of lavender (optional)

The oils can be expensive and may if necessary be omitted. Allspice, mace and musk are other ingredients that are sometimes used.

At the end of the 5 days combine the rose petals and salt with the other dried flowers and leaves. If the oils are used, mix them with some of the orris root, then combine this with the rest of the orris and the other spices, etc. Add to the dried flowers stirring all well together, cover
and leave for 3-4 weeks stirring the mixture occasionally. If it seems too moist, add more orris - if too dry, more salt. Extra flowers or leaves may be added from time to time, as available, but they should always be well dried.

Put the pot-pourri into small bowls or sachets, as desired. If it is kept in bowls, stir it from time to time, to release the scent.

There are two common plumbing problems which you may come across that don’t always require the services of a plumber. Finding out how to do it yourself is easy.

Overflowing Lavatory Cistern: The cause may be one of the following:

1. The Ball needs Adjustment: First, raise slightly the arm holding the ball and ascertain whether this shuts off the water inlet completely. If it does, all that needs to be done is to bend the arm downwards slightly; this will cause the water to be shut off at a lower level in the tank. Place a short wooden support under the arm near the water inlet, resting it on the bottom of the tank so that pressure on the arm will cause it to bend and not merely to open the valve.

2. The Washer is Worn: Again, lift the arm; if the water does not shut off completely, probably a new washer is required. Turn off the water supplying the cistern and remove the brass split pin on which the arm hinges. The arm can then be removed and with it a brass plunger and cylinder. One end of this plunger houses a washer, which can now be examined. It probably needs a replacement, but may be only dirty.

To replace the washer, unscrew the end cap which holds it (taking care not to scratch or damage the plunger); then remove the old washer and fit a new one (obtainable at a hardware store). Screw the two sections of the plunger together again and refit in the tank. Turn on the water and adjust the arm as necessary to obtain a correct water level (as shown by the mark on the inside of the cistern).

3. The Washer is Dirty: Dirt or rust found embedded in the washer can generally be removed by depressing the ball by hand once or twice and allowing a force of water to clean the valve seating. If this is not effective the arm must be removed as described above, the washer wiped clean and the valve seating wiped with a small piece of wood or the unsharpened end of a pencil. Replace the plunger, then the arm and splat pin.

4. The Ball is Leaking: If the arm does not lift when the water rises in the cistern, the ball must contain water as well as air and is not watertight. Unscrew it from the end of the arm and screw on a new one. The arm holding it should then be adjusted as necessary.

An Air-lock in the Hot-water System:
The symptoms are:
(1) no water comes from all or some draw-off points;
(2) only a trickle of water comes from draw-off points;
(3) the water in the boiler heats very quickly.

The remedy is usually to empty down the complete installation (after turning off the boiler) and refill it with all hot-water taps open. They should be closed only as a full flow of water is obtained.

It is sometimes possible to overcome an air-lock (again with boiler off) by connecting the main water supply to the hot-water supply, using rubber tubing to link the respective taps, then turning both on full for a few minutes.

This will force water through the pipelines and eject any air that cannot be moved by the comparatively lower pressure of the cold supply tank. Be careful not to over-fill the cold supply tank when using this method.

If neither of these remedies succeeds in overcoming the trouble, call in a hot water engineer.

The spring clean can be horrible experience unless you make sure you are prepared.

Advance Preparations
1. Arrange for any necessary painting or decorating to be done.
2. Examine all furniture and fittings and have any repairs carried out.
3. Have any chimneys swept early.
4. Turn out clapboards and drawers.
5. Wash extra blankets (or have them dry-cleaned and put them away; those in use can be dealt with later.
6. Loose covers and curtains should be washed or cleaned, so as to be ready in good time.
7. See that all cleaning equipment is in good working order and that a plentiful supply of polishes, detergents, etc., is available.

General Cleaning Routine for All Rooms
1. Take down curtains and pelmets.
2. Remove ornaments, books and pictures.
3. Clean carpets and rugs thoroughly on both sides with the vacuum cleaner. Attend to any special stains, then if practical roll up the carpets, take them out-of-doors and spread them wrong side uppermost on the lawn.
4. Use the attachment of the vacuum cleaner to clean upholstered furniture, cushions, furnishings and hangings. As soon as each removable item is clean, place it outside the room or out-of-doors. Cover the remaining furniture and fittings with dust sheets.
5. Dust wails, ceilings, high ledges etc., with the vacuum cleaner attachment or with a clean duster tied over a mop head.
6. After all loose dust has been removed from furniture and fittings, sweep the floor. Clean the hearth, etc.
7. Clean paintwork with warm soapy water or detergent, using a mild abrasive cleanser for obstinate marks. Start with the picture rail and follow with doors and windows. Washable walls can be dealt with after the woodwork.
8. Scrub the floor adding a little disinfectant to the water. Open doors and windows so that the floor may dry more quickly; leave to dry.
9. During the interval, clean china, pictures, metal ornaments, etc.
10. Clean the windows.
11. Polish the floor when dry.
12. Replace the carpet.
13. Polish the furniture.
14. Replace the clean curtains, pictures, books, ornaments, etc.

And you now have a lovely clean home. Perfect.

Where rot is suspected it should be dealt with immediately so as to minimise the problem and therefore the expense of fixing it. So how do you know if you have rot, what type of rot is it and what do you need to do about it?

Dry Rot:
This fungus flourished in an atmosphere which is warm, moist and poorly ventilated. Infected timber gives a dull sound when tapped. Other Signs are a musty smell; cracking or buckling of the surface ; a fine reddish-brown dust (the fungus spores) which appears when the wood is tapped; a cotton-wool-like appearance on the surface.

Where dry rot is suspected, professional aid should be called in, as treatment, to be effective must be drastic, thorough and applied with due regard to the structure of the house. On completion of the treatment, a reputable dry rot control firm will give a 20-year guarantee against reocurrence.

Even when the fungus has been destroyed and the diseased wood replaced, the cause of the trouble may still remain, so unless more efficient drainage
and ventilation are provided, the dry rot may recur. An expert firm will however be able to advise you on these points also.

As a preventive measure against dry rot, structural timbers (old and new) can be treated with a wood preservative. A wood dye with similar properties can be used on floors, inside woodwork and furniture; it is obtainable in various shades-including oak, mahogany and walnut.

Wet Rot:
This is a decay due to various fungi which attack wood under wetter conditions. It is usually easier to eradicate, the treatment being much the same as for dry rot.

There are always going to be crime but you can help to ensure your house is not the victim of it by taking some easy steps which will make your house less attactive to potential thieves.

There are many excellent burglarproof locks and window catches on the market, which make it more difficult for burglars to force their way in.

All internal doors should also be fitted with a lock or bolt, which should be used at night or at any time when the house is empty. It is quite a simple matter to have a burglar alarm system installed and smaller alarms are now available for use in one room only. Wall safes can be installed to safeguard jewellery etc., and range in price from a hundred pounds to a lot more, depending on the size required.

Every householder should make a point of taking out an insurance against burglary and housebreaking or see that his general Home Protection policy
covers this risk. Here are some basic precautions to take:

1. When you are out, do not leave doors unlocked or fan-lights and windows open, especially downstairs ones or those which can easily be reached by means of a garage or shed roof. Remember that a large proportion of entries take place at the back of the house, out of sight of neighbours or
passers-by so take special care with back windows, etc.

2. See that no ladder is accessible - it is a good plan to padlock a ladder to the wall or shed.

3. If you are away from home, do not leave any obvious signs, such as notes for the tradesmen or neighbours, uncollected newspapers, dust covers over the furniture etc-; do not draw the curtains. Arrangements can be made for the local police to check your house while you are away ; it is a wise plan also to inform neighbours of your absence. Any small valuables such as jewellery and silver should be left at the bank if the house is to be empty for more than a week or so.

4. Secure all doors and windows (removing the keys from the locks) but do not lock desks, etc., for if thieves do enter, they may badly damage furniture in breaking it open.

5. Would-be burglars sometimes try to check up beforehand by ringing up the house, pretending they have got a wrong number if they are answered, so
tell the police if you get a spate of such calls.

6. Remember that ordinary policies do not cover theft of cash, which should be banked rather than being left about the house.

Marble worktops are increasingly popular among new home owners due to it’s natural appeal and luxurious feel, however, it is also very expensive and can be spoiled by stains so therefore it’s important to know how to care for it.

In the first place you should always treat marble surfaces with care; this will make it much less likely that tarnishing might happen in the first place. Frequently wash with soapy water and rinse; a very sparing application of wax polish may be given occasionally. However, avoid the excessive use of polish on white marble, as it may yellow the surface.

Marble is slightly porous and although the surface of tables, worktops, etc., are likely to have been stopped and polished, stains are still fairly readily absorbed. They should therefore be rinsed off as soon as possible and the surface should be wiped dry. Coffee and wine stains which have dried on can be more of a problem. They should be sponged with a solution of borax and water (2 tbps. borax to 1/2 pint warm water) or a weak solution of sugar soap; always remember to rinse thoroughly after cleaning with clean water.

With very persistent marks, a little lemon juice or vinegar may help, but owing to their slightly solvent action, either of these should be rinsed off after a moment or two.

Marks made by cigarette burns and spirits ‘eat’ into the marble and their removal entails re-surfacing and repolishing the marble, which should be done professionally.

Wall papering can be a pain, especially if you don’t have a steam stripper. So what’s the best and easiest way to remove wall paper?

It’s not advisable to paper over existing wall paper. The new, wet paste may soften the older layer making the previous covering expand or pull away from the wall. So strip it off before redecorating.

Wetting the wall with a garden spray can be quicker than using a sponge, just make sure to adjust the nozzle on the end of the hose to produce a fine mist spray, or else you have a lot of water flowing down your walls.

Sponge the old paper with warm water to which has been added a squirt of washing-up liquid and a handful of wall paper paste. The washing up liquid acts as a wetting agent and the wall paper paste helps to keep water on the wall while the paper soaks. If the wall paper is painted or washable then you will have to make the surface course by rubbing it with sand paper or a sanding block.

Allow at least five minutes soaking time, then use a wide stripping knife to lift the paper from the wall. Slide the scraper under a seam and push it away from you. Be careful not to dig it into the plaster.

If the paper won’t shift, sponge on more water and allow a longer soak.

If there are several layers of paper on a wall or if the paper has been painted over, it is much easier to get off with a steam wall paper stripper. Hire one from your local tool hire service. The stripper gives out steam from a metal plate softening the paper so that it can be removed. But be careful when using a steam stripper on plasterboard, it can soften the surface so use the stripping knife as little as possible.

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If there was a soggy emergency at your house, would you know what to do? How does the water system work, where does all the water come from and how do you turn it off? Knowing the answer to these questions could be the difference between a bit of a wet carpet and completely drenched house.

Most houses have a cold water tank, usually in the loft, which feeds most of the taps in the house, plus the lavatory cistern. The tank is filled by the rising main. The only tap fed direct from the rising main is usually the kitchen cold tap, which should always be used for drinking water. A washing machine and garden tap may also be fed by the rising main. A few pre-war and country houses have all the taps, and lavatory cistern, fed direct from the rising main.

Whether you have a burst pipe or you just want to change the washer on a leaky tap, you will need to turn the water supply off first.

For taps that are fed from the cold tank, turn off (clockwise) the gate valve or isolating valve in the appropriate pipe. If may be in the loft. When you have identified it, label it so you don’t forget.

If there is no gate valve or isolating valve on the pipe, you will have to drain the cold-water tank as follows:

1 – Put a piece of wood, like a broom stick, across the top of the tank and tie the ball valve to it so that the valve is out of the water and thus closed. This will stop the water coming in from the rising main.

2 – Turn on the bathroom cold taps until the water stops flowing, and then turn on the hot taps (only a little water will come out of them). There is no need to turn off the boiler as the hot water cylinder will not be drained.

For taps that are fed from the rising main, turn off (clockwise) the main stopcock, and then turn on the tap until the water stops flowing.

If you don’t know where the stopcock is then it is worth going and having a look for it now. In an emergency such as a burst pipe you will want to be able to find it quickly. In most houses is it where the water supply enters the house. It is often under the kitchen sink or in the larder. If the house has a cellar it may be down there. In a bungalow look in the airing cupboard.

In a last resort, if the stopcock is jammed or doesn’t stop the flow of water you may need to turn off the water supply from the outside stopcock in from of your house. It’s under a small square(ish) metal cover either just inside your garden or in the pavement out the front.

The stopcock is below ground level at the bottom of a pipe, so you need a key which you will have to improvise. The stopcock may have a tap in which case a length of wood with a couple of notches at the end would do the trick.

All electric plugs need a cartridge fuse. Many are fitted with a 13 amp fuse when you buy them, but you should make sure that the plug has the right fuse to protect the appliance. It will only need a 3amp fuse if the appliance is, say, a table lamp or a hair dryer. The more powerful 13amp fuse could damage the wiring or even cause a fire.

Unscrew the cover of the plug with a screwdriver and take care not to lose the screw.

Prize out the fuse if it’s covering one of the terminals. Loosen the flex grip if necessary. Plastic flanges grip the flex in some plugs, and they don’t need loosening; but in other the flex is held by a screw down bar.

Put in the flex, pressing it between flanges. Or push it under the bar and tighten the screws. Make sure the bar grips the outer sheath, not just the wires.

If the flex has to pass through a sleeve in the cover, do it now.

Cut the wires to the right length to reach the terminals and strip off some insulation from each wire if necessary. Connect the wires to the correct terminals. The brown wire is connected to the terminal marked L, the blue wire goes to the terminal marked N, and the earth wire (green and yellow) goes to the terminal marked E.

Wind the top of each wire round the correct terminal and tighten the screw. Wind the wire clockwise round the terminal or it will be loosened as you tighten the screw. Alternatively, if the terminal has a hole, push the wire into it until no bare wire is showing, and tighten the screw.

Replace the fuse if you had to remove it to reach the terminal. Make sure it has the correct amp rating.

Screw the cover back onto the plug and bobs your uncle…